Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Warm Whiskey in a Cold Ditch: Installment #11

Finding Pete


My brother barely moved when I stepped over his legs and walked to the observation car. I had been dozing and watching Utah through the window, reading pieces in the Rhodia. In the middle of the notebook was "The Map-Reader," printed neatly in red ink, and to read it I needed more light than the bulb above my seat could provide.

The Map-Reader

Fold by fold, the father spread the map across the width of the redwood picnic table. He anchored each corner with stones the son had gathered near the lake after they left the blue Taurus to cool in the shaded parking lot. The car did fine on the flats, but the engine overheated on extended lines of uphill grades.

“Keep your soda away from the paper, okay?”

“Okay.” The boy set the can of generic cola on a flat rock near his feet.

“You didn’t have to move it off the table, Pete. Just away from the map.”

“I know, Dad. It’s good now.”


“Here’s where we are.” The father set his little finger alongside a blue oval. “Woods Lake. Here’s the road we took down from the highway—see?” He used a different finger to trace the thin, solid black line that ran toward the bottom of the map, away from a red line that was the highway.


“How long will we have to stay here?”


The father looked at the Taurus. “I don’t know. The air’s cool, so I should be able to check the radiator soon.” He looked down at the map, spread his fingers along a stretch of red line, compared the distance between his fingers to the scale at the top of the map, and repeated the measurement several times. “Just eyeballing it, looks like we’ve covered a couple hundred miles since this morning. You hungry?”


“A little.”


“Be specific. Are you hungry, or not?”


“Isn’t ‘a little’ specific, Dad?”


“No, it isn’t. It’s general, like you’re afraid to commit one way or another.”


“Then I’m hungry.”


The father sighed. “Look, Pete. I know it has been a long day, and I know you’re tired of being in the car. I’m tired, too.”


“You make it sound like I’m trying to start something, or I’m trying to be snippy. I’m not. If I wasn’t hungry, then I’d say so.”


He looked at the boy. “Fair enough. You sandwich hungry, or carrots and celery hungry?”


The boy smiled. “Cookie hungry.”


“How about half a sandwich, then cookies?”


“If I wait a few minutes, maybe I’ll be more hungry.”

“That’s fine—we’ll wait. I think we need some more stones.” The breeze had picked up.

“I’ll get some,” Pete said, and he found a handful of stones beneath the table. As he spaced them equally around the map’s edges, his father reached into a worn leather rucksack and pulled out several large, neatly folded squares of paper.

“More maps?” Pete asked. Over the years, he had learned to assume that nearly every scrap of paper his father possessed was a map of some type.

“A different kind—not a road map.” He flipped through them and unfolded the paper, spreading it beside the road map. “This is a Forest Service map—a topographic map, or just topo,” he said. “Each map is a quadrant, and we’re on the Caples Lake quadrant. Look: here’s Woods Lake—see how it looks different here, on this map?”

“It’s the same shape. It looks the same as on the road map.”

“The same basic shape, yes. But more detailed. And all the green area? That’s the forest.” He gestured to the conifers that seemed to gyrate from the top town when the breeze was strong. “The white areas are rock—granite, from the looks of things around here. The blue lines are creeks and streams. And these brown lines that curve all over the place? Those are contour lines.”

“Contour?”

The father nodded. “They show you things like slopes, how steep the ground is.”

The boy squinted. “What are the broken lines all by themselves?” He drew his thumb along one of those lines, which started near their lake and headed into the green section of the map.

“Those are trails, for hiking. Two broken lines next to each other are jeep trails and gravel roads.”

“Some of these brown lines—the contour lines—have numbers. That’s the elevation?”

“Yep! Good work. The light-brown lines show a rise or fall of forty feet; there are two-hundred feet up or down between the dark-brown lines. We’re at about eight-thousand feet. So, if you follow this line,” he traced a dark-brown line around the map, “you’ll always be at eight-thousand feet. And when the lines are close together, that means the ground is steep.”

Pete looked back at the road map. “How much of this one do we have to drive today?”

“Most of it. If we can drive until dark, we can start another map.”

The boy looked past his father and to the lake, at a blue surface that anticipated the wind, and he wondered if there were fish there. There were poles and reels in the car’s trunk, but they had not been used in a long time.

“I’m going to check the car,” the father said. “Stay here and make sure the maps don’t blow away.”

Pete watched his father limp toward the parking lot. He turned his eyes back to the two maps and adjusted the spacing between the stones so that his thumb and forefinger spread a few inches apart each touched a stone. A few pine needles had dropped onto the paper, and he flicked them to the ground; he had learned many trips ago that not only must the maps be creased neatly and correctly, they must be kept clean. He had come to be comfortable with how things were ordered; in his bedroom in the apartment where he lived with his mother, nothing was out of place. “You’re too neat for a boy your age,” his mother had told him once.

“The car’s cooling down,” his father said when he came back and sat across from Pete. “I brought a sandwich—eat the whole thing, you get three cookies. Eat half, you get one cookie.”

Pete laughed. “What kind of deal is that? Sounds like bad math, if you ask me.”

“I was hoping you’d eat only half a sandwich so I could eat all the cookies.”

“Mom said I shouldn’t trust you, you know.”


The man considered whether the boy was kidding—and whether his ex-wife had been kidding. “She’s probably right, but for reasons other than cookies.”


Pete unwrapped the sandwich: a layer of plastic wrap surrounded by aluminum foil. His father said that this technique kept the moisture in and the heat out.

“What do you see, Pete?”


“See?”


The man pointed to the topo map. “There. What do you see.”


Pete shrugged. “Green and white, mostly. And the contour lines and streams.”

“Do you
see them?”

He didn’t know how to answer. “I see the map, what you told me to see.”

“But look. You can see more than you think you can. You know about the contour lines now, how they indicate elevation. If you know this, you can train yourself to see how everything is not flat--the hills and the canyons. And you can see how steep a trail is. Not imagine, but
see.”

“I understand what’s there,” Pete said, chewing as he spoke. “I can’t see what you do, though.”

“Some day, you will. It takes practice. I’ve been looking at maps for a long time. You finished with the sandwich?”

Pete had eaten half. “Yeah.”

“I’ll eat the other half.”

“Can I have the cookie now, Dad?”

“You can have all three.”

“Really?”

“Yep. I ate two on the way back from the car.”

“Maybe Mom’s wrong about you.” When the cookies were gone, Pete left the table for the edge of the lake where he shuffled across a small beach. The tall mountain on the far side of the lake seemed to be surrounded by a halo. The boy did not see any fish.

“I need to go to the bathroom,” Pete said when returned to the table.

His father pointed toward a small building near the car. “Outhouse is over there.”

Coming out of the outhouse, Pete walked part way up the hill that rose in front of him. He looked to the picnic table and watched as his father folded the maps and slid them into his rucksack. The man always seemed thinner whenever Pete saw him, and now that thinness leaned toward sickly. His limp had gotten worse, too, though he never complained about his leg hurting.

“Dad?” Pete said when he neared the table.

“What is it, Pete?”

“Can I see that map, the topo?”

“We need to get going.”

“Just for a minute.”

The man reached down and retrieved the map, unfolding it across the table.

“We’re here, right?” Pete pointed to the lake.

“That’s the spot.”

“I think this is the outhouse, right here.” He placed his small index finger at a bare spot. “See—I think this is it.”

His father squinted. “You could be right.” He rotated the map. “If we look at it this way, we can get a better idea of where this picnic table is. Here’s the campground that’s near the parking lot, so you’re right.”

Pete pointed toward the outhouse. “And see this line? Maybe that’s the hill outside the outhouse door. Across the lake there’s a mountain,” he pointed to a small circle of contour lines. “I saw it from the beach.”

His father eyed the lake, tilted his head so he could see what Pete was pointing to, and he nodded. “You learn fast.”


The Taurus had cooled, and they drove to the highway then turned east. “Where are we going now, Dad?”

“Not far.”

“Be specific, Dad. Not distance—destination.”

“You’re getting to smart for me, Kiddo! I think we’ll stop in Reno, get a hotel room for the night. We’ll find a place with a swimming pool. We won’t change maps tonight.”

“Okay.” Pete looked out the window, at the mountain he had seen while standing at the beach. “Are you supposed to leave California?”

His father clicked his tongue against his teeth. “No.”

The terrain changed from granite and trees to something more barren. Pete blinked one eye at a time to make the landscape shift.

“You know why I show you these things, right, Pete?”

“The maps? Mom says it’s because you’re obsessed.”

His father laughed. “Yes, I suppose she’s right. But that’s not why I do it, not really. If you can read a map, you can do anything. If you walk around an airport, you know how to follow the signs—the pictures and the words—that’s like reading a map. Everyone has to be able to find their way around, to figure things out. To see things that others can’t see. If you go on a trip by yourself someday, you’ll be able to look at a road map for a few minutes and know exactly where you’re going.”

Pete sensed that his father had relaxed now that they were out of the mountains. The car should be okay now. “Dad?”


“Yeah,” his father said.


“How long will you be gone this time?”


His father glanced across the seat. “Why do you ask that?”


“Mom said you won’t tell her, but I want to know.”


“Your mom wants to know because she’s trying to decide if she should give up on me forever.”


“She already divorced you, Dad. That’s pretty much giving up, isn’t it?”


“That’s giving up on being married to me, and I don’t blame her for doing that. Giving up on
me is something else.”

“Mom doesn’t give up easily.”


“No, she doesn’t.” He ran his finger across dust on the dashboard. “It might be three years, Pete,” he finally said. “Maybe fewer.”


“Three years. When will you know?”


“I’ve got to call my lawyer tomorrow. He’ll tell me when I’ll find out.”


“But you were innocent of everything, right?”

“Yes, mostly I was innocent. Not of everything, because nobody is
completely innocent.”

“That’s not very specific, is it.”

The man hesitated. “No, it isn’t. When you get older, I’ll give you the specifics.”

“I can ask Mom.”

“I told her not to tell you.”

“That doesn’t seem fair. People ask me where you are, and I never have a good answer.”

“Who asks?”

Pete shrugged. “Friends.”

“What do you say to them?”

“I usually just say that my parents are divorced and you moved away.”

“I’m sorry about that. I should work harder at
not going away.”

“If you’re gone for three years, I could have my driver’s license by the time you get home.”

“You’ll be a good driver. And you’ll know how to read a map, too.”

“I’ll take you for a drive when you come home, okay? You can navigate.”

“I’d like that, Pete.”

Pete reached into the back of the car to retrieve his father’s rucksack. “Can I?”

“Yes. You always can. I want you to take care of those maps while I’m gone. You should start your own collection, too. You need your own set of maps.”

Pete pulled several road maps from the rucksack’s pocket. “You can’t take these with you?”

“No. But I’ll be able to look at others sometimes. If the library is good, that is. Usually there’s at least an atlas or two.”

“Which map are we on now?”

“We’re still on the one on top.”

Pete opened the map and found the highway and Woods Lake. He watched out the side window until they passed a road sign that showed the mileage to Reno. “Fifty-three miles.” He drew his finger along the red line that was the highway.

“You find where we are?”

“It’s pretty easy.”

“Well, keep watching, because I’ve never been this way. We’ll have to turn north at some point.”

“I think I see where—not too far away.” He looked up at the sky. “Before dark.”

“’Before dark.’” I like the sound of that. “You think you can figure it out?”

“I think so, Dad. But I was hoping to change maps tonight. You know, drive onto another one.”

The father adjusted the rearview mirror to deflect sunlight from his face. “I’m not sure this is the day for that, Pete. Sometimes it’s good to leave them folded so you have something to look forward to.”

“We could keep driving, Dad. You’ve got a bunch of maps left here.”

The father didn’t reply, just kept his eyes on the road and on the front of the Taurus, watching for steam.

Friday, June 18, 2010

Warm Whiskey in a Cold Ditch: Installment #10

Margie's brain

Margie said that the first time she opened a human skull, she half expected to see some evidence of the person's soul. What she found instead, she also said, was mushy tissue. "It was like opening a musk melon, maybe a pumpkin." Not long afterward, she once told me, was when she became convinced that there was no god—and certainly no God.

"How can you determine that from looking at a brain?" I asked.

She shrugged. "Science won me over," she said. "I thought about what I'd seen, what I felt in the texture of grooves on the brain. I'd always been ambivalent about religion, so ambivalent I couldn't even convince myself to become an agnostic. There was a time I was sure that God existed, and then a time when I simply hoped so. At some point I saw that bugs and fish and skunks and people all die the same way, for the most part—things just break down and stop working. Humans are nothing special, just as accidental as any other form of life. A bunch of chemicals get thrown into a pot, and something develops."

"What does that do to faith?" I asked.

"Not a thing," Margie said. "I'm not saying that faith is bad, or that belief in a god is bad. I just don't think either is necessary. I remember the first time I had to tell a patient's family that someone had died. A couple of them responded with something like, 'At least he's in a better place now.' I just didn't get that. I thought, If God gave us life and wanted us to live here, live as humans, why would we want to go to a better place? I began to see both God and heaven as human constructs and nothing more."

"Maybe belief gives us freedom," I said. "Or hope. I'd like to think that we do have a purpose, that we're not just a collection of accidents."

"I found some liberation when I stopped believing in god," she said. "And I found myself thinking that if I concentrated on doing as much good as I can while I'm alive, then that's enough—I don't have to hope for some 'better place.' I'm comfortable with being alive now, with being happy now."

I had admired my sister's abilities and intelligence for as long as I could remember, but no matter what she said, I wanted to believe that even those of us who had not accomplished or contributed much to society had some type of purpose, that there was hope of redemption. But, maybe that went to what Margie was saying....

Now, on the train, Margie was sitting with my father, and I thought I really should give her the Rhodia; perhaps she could gleen—or add—something I could not. Instead, I ran my hands across the smooth cover. And with my eyes closed, I reached my fingers into the middle of the notebook and felt how the pressure from someone's pen had created indents in the paper—small, grooves of thoughts and ideas left for me to feel.

Friday, June 4, 2010

Warm Whiskey in a Cold Ditch: Installment #9

My admiration for my brother was strong, but as his snoring got louder, I stuffed Kleenex into my ears and leaned away from him. Settling against the window, I remembered another train ride that ended up interrupted for a couple of months. I was drinking a bit more then and had reached a precarious balance between complete obliviousness and mistaken confidence. That's not always an unpleasant place to be, but it's often difficult to leave behind.

I was headed west to east on that trip, but lost over the years is where I was actually going. I know I was alone. Where I ended up, was Helper, Utah, a main street of a town in which there are few violent crimes but many thefts and burglaries. The Amtrak train stopped in Helper about seven in the morning, not long after sunrise, and I stepped outside for fresh air. For some reason I also started walking, and then the train continued on without me. I returned to the station for an hour, probably thinking the train would return for me. I felt glad that I still had my wallet and a few hundred dollars, but my duffel bag was still on the train. I've started over again at several points in my life, but that was the first time without a change of clothing.

When I walked back into town, I found the Golden Rule Mission where I got a free breakfast and directions to the Phillips 66 gas station where the owner gave me more directions, this time to a 3-room strip of a motel. There I paid for a week's worth of lodging and met Susan, who managed the Gateway Lanes bowling alley. When my week was over Susan took me in and said that if she earned the money, I had to cook and clean and walk her home from the lanes late at night.

"Three years," Susan said one night when I asked her how long she had been there.

"Three years?" I pictured Helper and wondered who could live there for that long.

"Legend is that the town keeps people," Susan said.

"Keeps people? What does that mean?"

"Like you'd find in the Twilight Zone keeping," she said. "The town draws people in. Look at you--you didn't show up on purpose, did you?"

"I just missed my train," I said.

"Nobody just misses a train in Helper," she said.

"How did you get here?"

"Bad transmission in a Chevy Nova," she said. "On my way to someplace other than Utah, and this is as far as I got."

But one day she was gone. I had walked to the bowling alley to walk her home, and Nate, the bartender-cook-security guard said that Susan had met someone a couple nights earlier, then had left with him just a couple hours earlier. That was enough for me, so a few days later I boarded the Amtrak train and never looked back.


The train with my family--including my dead aunt and uncle--was headed toward Helper again. Steven was still sleeping and the train had grown a bit too quiet for so early in the evening. I switched on the overhead light and opened the Rhodia. Leafing through the pages, I found paragraph of small text toward the end of the notebook. Above the paragraph was the note, "I have started writing a novel called The Golfer's Wife. Here is the first paragraph."

I knew the nature of my marriage had changed when I walked into the house and found that my wife had packed her clothes, killed the cat, and moved out of my life. "Angie?" I called tentatively as I walked from room to room, my voice bouncing off the sheetrock of what no longer seemed to be the cozy home I had left nine hours earlier.
I closed the Rhodia and thought about that paragraph, about how everything in it seemed so plausible.